We all know the famous Scottish dish haggis. Or do we? Today, we're going on a culinary adventure, exploring the legend… and the reality… of this iconic dish. Now, some say the wild haggis is a small, wiry-haired creature, perfectly adapted to the Scottish Highlands with one leg longer than the other…
But before any Scots come at me with their sporrans drawn, let's be clear: we're talking about the dish, not a mythical beast. If you don't have the time to hunt your own haggis (and let's face it, who does?), I've got the perfect recipe to stand in its place.
So, haggis. It's often thought of as the quintessential Scottish dish. And while Scotland has certainly embraced it as a national treasure, the truth is, haggis has a bit of a wider history. It wasn't always just a Scottish thing. Back in the 17th century, an English writer named Gervase Markham even included it in his cookbook, The English Huswife.
But its roots go back even further! We're talking ancient times. Think Roman Empire. Think ancient Greece! There's evidence that dishes similar to haggis – stuffed animal stomachs filled with meat and spices – were enjoyed by people like Marcus Apicius, the famous Roman gourmet, and even mentioned by the Greek playwright Aristophanes.
Some scholars even suggest that Homer, the author of The Iliadand The Odyssey, alluded to such dishes in his writings.
It's truly an ancient food.
Now, the word "haggis" itself is a bit of a mystery. We first see it written down in the 15th century, but where it comes from? Nobody's quite sure. There are a few theories. Some say it comes from the Middle English word "hagese," while others think it might be related to the French word "hacher" or "hager," meaning "to chop" or “hack.".
And there's another theory that it could come from the Old Norse word "haggw," meaning "to cut into pieces."
So, the name itself reflects the way haggis is made – chopping up ingredients and stuffing them into a casing.
Now, let's be clear: the idea of stuffing organs into a stomach or intestines isn't exactly a modern invention. We've been doing this kind of thing for as long as we've been cooking! It's a primal way of using all parts of the animal – nothing goes to waste. Think of it as the original zero-waste cooking! Essentially, what we're talking about here is sausage-making in its most basic form. We're taking chopped-up meat, adding spices and other ingredients, and then encasing it.
You often hear people mention The Forme of Cury, the oldest English cookbook, as evidence of haggis-like dishes. And while it does have a recipe called 'Raysols,' it's not quite what we'd recognise as haggis today.
'Raysols' are more like what we'd call rissoles or faggots – more like a dense meatball or sausage patty. The key difference is that they weren't traditionally encased in a stomach. But the concept of stuffing meat with other ingredients? That's definitely there. It shows that this culinary tradition has deep roots.
The Romans, those masters of culinary innovation, were also big fans of this kind of cooking. They stuffed animal parts – not just the meat, but also organ meats and other ingredients – into the animal's stomach and then boiled it. Talk about nose-to-tail eating! This was a highly practical way to preserve the meat and offal after a hunt, ensuring that nothing went to waste. It's a testament to their ingenuity and resourcefulness.
And we even have a written record of this practice! The oldest surviving Roman cookbook, attributed to Apicius includes a recipe called Ventrem Porcinum. Now, that translates to 'pig's stomach,' and the recipe itself is remarkably similar to what we know as haggis. It calls for pork, brains – and a blend of spices, all cooked inside a pig's stomach.
So, it seems the Romans were already enjoying something very much like haggis centuries ago. This really underscores just how ancient and widespread this culinary tradition is.
Now, haggis isn't just about eating; it's also about… hurling! Yes, you heard that right.
There's actually a World Haggis Hurling Championship, and in 2017, Gary McLay set a new record by hurling a haggis an impressive 59 meters! It just goes to show how deeply ingrained haggis is in Scottish culture – it's not just food; it's a sport!
But haggis's rise to iconic status in Scotland really owes a lot to one man: Robert Burns.
In 1786, Burns penned his famous poem, 'Address to a Haggis,' a
passionate ode to this humble dish.
This poem wasn't just a culinary review; it was a declaration of national pride. It transformed haggis from a peasant food into a symbol of Scottish identity. And to this day, Burns's 'Address to a Haggis' is recited at Burns Suppers every January 25th – Burns's birthday.
These celebrations, full of food, drink, and poetry, keep the haggis tradition alive and well. Although, let's be honest, haggis is enjoyed year-round in Scotland, especially during Hogmanay, the Scottish New Year celebration.
Now, while most modern haggis recipes use a blend of readily available spices, we're going for a more historically inspired version today. We're going to try to evoke some of the flavours that might have been used in earlier times. So, here's what you'll need:
Ingredients:
3 kg Pluck (That's the lungs, heart, and liver of a sheep)
5 tsp Mustard
6 Tsp Garlic Salt (While garlic salt is a modern convenience, garlic itself has been used for centuries. If you want to be more authentic, use fresh garlic and salt separately).
3 Tsp Coriander Seed
3 Tsp Dried Sage
3 tsp Thyme
3 Tsp Caraway
2 Onions
300g Suet
750g Oatmeal
Ox Bungs (These are a type of natural casing. You can find these at a good butcher or online supplier. Other natural casings can be used, but ox bungs are traditional.
Alright, let's get cooking!
Method:
Prepare the Pluck: Separate the lungs, heart, and liver. Boil them in water for 1 hour.
Process the Offal: Drain the offal, reserving the stock. Either finely chop the offal or run it through a food processor. Set aside.
Grind the Spices: Grind the herbs and seeds together finely in a pestle and mortar. The finer you grind them, the better the flavour distribution will be. Finely chop the onions.
Combine Ingredients: In a large bowl, mix together the processed offal, reserved stock, ground herbs/seeds, chopped onions, suet, and oatmeal. Knead, mash, and work the mixture together with your hands until it's consistent.
Stuff the Casings: Carefully stuff the mixture into the ox bungs, tying the ends tightly with string. Don't overfill them, as they'll expand during cooking and could burst.
Size and Freezing: How big you make your haggis is up to you! You can freeze them at this stage for later use.
Cooking: To cook, prick the haggis several times with a pin. This helps prevent them from bursting. Boil or simmer them gently for 1 1/2 hours. Ensure the haggis is thoroughly hot before serving.
Serving: To eat, slice the haggis lengthwise and scoop out the filling, discarding the casing - And of course, no haggis meal is complete without the traditional accompaniments: mashed potatoes, mashed turnips (or "neeps"), and a dram of whisky or Irn Bru! *
And if you're feeling truly authentic, have someone play the bagpipes and recite Robert Burns's 'Address to a Haggis' as you enjoy your meal!
*obviously potatoes are a 16th century edition and whiskey wasn’t written about till the 15th century